J. Lohr Cuvee PAU 2015 Paso Robles (United States), 14.9% abv, $50.00

Opens with a stately nose of black currants, baking spice, and forest floor. On the palate, there’s more dark fruit, a good dose of pepper, notes of clove, mocha, and a graphite edge. Velvety tannins and admirable acidity round it out.